ClassicGuide

Recognising rust

Mechanics and care

How you tell structural rust from surface rust, which zones matter across almost every series, and why fresh underseal makes you wary.

Rust is the most expensive item

Mechanicals can be overhauled. Structural sheet metal in the sills, floor and mounts costs several times the purchase price once it has to be welded, straightened and painted. That is why every viewing starts at the metal, with a torch, a magnet and, if possible, a paint-thickness gauge.

The places that belong to one model are in the buying advice. Here it is what applies to almost every classic.

Surface against structure

Surface rust on an unprotected underbody or on an exhaust clamp is work, often not a drama. Structural rust in a sill, chassis rail, spring mount, strut tower or floor pan is a project. The MFK draws the same line: structural parts rusted through fail.

Useful ways to tell them apart:

The zones that almost always count

Lift the carpets. A smell of mould when you open the door points to wet in the floor, not to "the smell of a car that has been standing".

Fresh underseal

Fresh, thick, black, still soft: that can be care, or a cover. The two look the same. At the edges, and in places the seller does not expect (inner sill, behind the trim), the truth shows. A car that has "just had the underside protected" and otherwise has no history, you treat as unprotected, plus a layer you cannot see.

After the diagnosis

Small, dry spots on non-structural parts: a deduction on the price, and a plan. Structural metal rusted through: either a deliberate project with a budget, or you walk away. The checklist has the points; an appraisal on a lift, on an expensive car, costs less than a chassis-rail hole you missed.

If you have welding done: only in a workshop that is competent with sheet metal, with photographs and, where the structure is affected, with an eye on the next MFK and on veteran status.