Buying checklist Citroën 2CV 2CV6

Much becomes clear before you travel. If papers are missing without a good reason, that is already a price argument, or a reason to cancel.

• Registration document present, the Stammnummer matches the vehicle
• Latest MFK (periodic vehicle inspection): date, any conditions, and veteran entryVeteran status is tied to conditions (condition, mileage). Gaining it later can be expensive.Veteran status explained
• Look at the service book, invoices and restoration recordsPhotographs of a restoration are worth more than the words "just done".History and papers
• Matching Numbers: check engine and chassis numbers against the papersHistory and papers
• Are the number of previous owners and the location history plausible? (import, periods standing)Importing into Switzerland
• Read the value estimate and the weak points of the series beforehandBoth are in the buying guide for that series.

Sheet metal is the dearest item on a classic. Take your time, bring a torch and a magnet, and be twice as wary of fresh underseal.

• Rust in the usual places: wheel arches, sills, jacking points, window frames
• Inspect the underside. Fresh, thick underseal can hide rust
• Are the panel gaps even all round? Uneven gaps point to an accident or a poor repair
• Paint: colour differences, runs, masking edges, signs of a resprayA paint-thickness gauge costs little and shows filler at once.
• Doors, bonnets and lids close cleanly, and the doors do not sag
• Chrome, trim and rubber seals: condition and completenessA replacement looks trivial, but on a rare model it is often expensive or unavailable.
• Are the drains clear? (scuttle, sunroof, boot, fuel filler)

See the engine cold. A warmed engine hides starting trouble, rattles and smoke, so arrange the visit with the car cold.

• Cold start: does the engine fire willingly, and how is the idle in the first minutes?
• Check the oil level and colour, and look at the coolantStreaks in the coolant or pale foam on the oil cap point to the head gasket.
• Leaks at the engine, gearbox and differential (look from below)A light sweat is normal on an old engine. Drips are not.
• Exhaust smoke: blue = oil, white (persistent) = head gasket, black = mixture
• Clutch: bite point, judder, slip under load
• All gears including reverse; synchromesh on the downchange
• Ask about the service state of the expensive items: timing belt or chain, valve clearances, carburettor overhaul

Unspectacular, but it matters for safety, and the MFK is unforgiving. Electrics are the most often underestimated cost on a classic.

• Dampers, bushes and steering: play, knocks, worn joints
• Brake pipes and hoses: rust, porosity, age
• Tyres: check the DOT age (older than 8–10 years: replace), is the wear even?Wear on one side gives away geometry or accident damage.Tyres on a classic
• Try every electrical consumer: lights, indicators, wipers, instruments, heater and fan
• Look at the loom: bodges, flying fuses, added equipment
• Are the battery tray and earth points free of corrosion?

The interior often gives away the true mileage better than the odometer, and damp in the footwell is a warning of hidden rust.

• Seats: upholstery, bolsters, seams. Does the wear match the stated mileage?
• Dashboard: cracks (sun damage), and whether every instrument works
• Lift the carpets: damp or rust on the floorpan?A musty smell as you get in is a clear sign of water getting in.
• Headlining and, on a convertible, the hood: condition, mechanism, waterproofing
• Originality: wheel, radio, gear lever, pedal rubbers. Are changes documented and reversible?

No purchase without a drive, even if the seller hesitates. Drive it yourself, at least 20 to 30 minutes, with a cold start.

• Experience the cold start and the first minutes yourself (do not let it be warmed up)
• Tracking: on a straight, safe road, does the car pull to one side?
• Brakes: pedal feel, pulling to one side, judder under harder braking
• Listen on purpose: suspension knocks, gearbox whine, wheel-bearing drone in corners
• Watch temperature and oil pressure for the whole drive
• After the drive, look underneath again: fresh drips at the engine, gearbox or differential?

The critical points of the 2CV6, in addition to the shared inspection catalogue. A lift or a pit is essential – on the 2CV the chassis decides the purchase, and you cannot judge it from above.

• Go over the whole chassis: the original platform chassis rusts through from the inside. Tap the longitudinal rails, the crossmembers and the mounts of the suspension cans. Fresh underseal is a warning signThe chassis question is the buying decision itself. A rotten chassis turns the bargain into a project with the body off.
• On a replica or Galva chassis: clarify maker and quality (branded galvanised chassis are a plus, cheap replicas distort). Look at the invoice and the MFK entry for the chassis swapA cleanly documented Galva chassis is not a fault, it is a selling point. An undocumented swap pushes the price down.
• Check the floor panels and the pedal floor from above and below: lift carpets and rubber mats, tap around the pedals and the seat mounts
• Check sills, A-pillars and the windscreen frame for blisters and rust-through. On the 2CV, water runs everywhere it should not
• Check wings, bonnet edges and lower door edges: the bolt-on panels are cheap to buy, but they often serve as cosmetics over tired substance
• Check the rear closing panel, the boot floor and the mount for the rear bumper. Common rust points, and easily overlooked
• Check the roll-top roof: cloth for tears and brittleness, the rear-window film for clouding, the roof frame and rain gutters for rust. Ask about watertightness, or test itA new soft top is affordable at 500–1'000 francs. Rust in the roof frame underneath is not.
• 602 cm³ flat-twin: do the cold start yourself, place the oil leaks at the pushrod tubes and rocker covers (weeping is normal, drips are not), and measure compression if you suspect itThe engine is almost indestructible and cheap to rebuild. It is rarely the reason to leave a car standing.
• Check the ignition: the points ignition sits behind the fan and is gladly neglected. An uneven idle and poor pull point to worn points. An electronic conversion is common and not a concern
• Suspension: check the suspension cans on the chassis sides for rust and worn mounts, and test the kingpins for play. Is regular greasing documented?Worn kingpins are the most common MFK fault on the 2CV.
• Brakes: from 1981, inboard front disc brakes on the gearbox. A backlog of maintenance is common, and the system absolutely requires green LHM, not ordinary brake fluid. Early cars have drums all roundThe wrong brake fluid destroys the seals of the whole system. Look at the records of the last brake service.
• Driveshafts and gearbox: check the gaiters for splits, the joints for clicking on a tight turn, and test the synchromesh of second and third
• Originality and papers: compare paint code and equipment with the history, clarify Swiss delivery or import, and look at the invoices for chassis and metalwork

The most important step comes after the visit: judge it soberly instead of deciding in love.

• Judge the condition grade honestly (1–5). If in doubt, half a grade worseThe grades are explained in the knowledge article on condition grades.Condition grades explained
• Compare the price with the series estimate, and note the faults as a negotiating list
• If you are serious: arrange a short independent appraisal, or a second visit with a specialistAn appraisal costs a few hundred francs. Missed sheet-metal damage costs several times that.Appraisal before buying
• Do not rush: a serious seller allows time to think