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Buying checklist Fiat 500 Nuova 500
54 checkpoints for the viewing
1. Preparation and papers 0/6
Much becomes clear before you travel. If papers are missing without a good reason, that is already a price argument, or a reason to cancel.
Sheet metal is the dearest item on a classic. Take your time, bring a torch and a magnet, and be twice as wary of fresh underseal.
Rust in the usual places: wheel arches, sills, jacking points, window frames Inspect the underside. Fresh, thick underseal can hide rust Are the panel gaps even all round? Uneven gaps point to an accident or a poor repair Paint: colour differences, runs, masking edges, signs of a respray A paint-thickness gauge costs little and shows filler at once. Doors, bonnets and lids close cleanly, and the doors do not sag Chrome, trim and rubber seals: condition and completeness A replacement looks trivial, but on a rare model it is often expensive or unavailable. Are the drains clear? (scuttle, sunroof, boot, fuel filler) See the engine cold. A warmed engine hides starting trouble, rattles and smoke, so arrange the visit with the car cold.
4. Chassis, brakes and electrics 0/6
Unspectacular, but it matters for safety, and the MFK is unforgiving. Electrics are the most often underestimated cost on a classic.
Dampers, bushes and steering: play, knocks, worn joints Brake pipes and hoses: rust, porosity, age Tyres: check the DOT age (older than 8–10 years: replace), is the wear even? Wear on one side gives away geometry or accident damage. Tyres on a classic Try every electrical consumer: lights, indicators, wipers, instruments, heater and fan Look at the loom: bodges, flying fuses, added equipment Are the battery tray and earth points free of corrosion? The interior often gives away the true mileage better than the odometer, and damp in the footwell is a warning of hidden rust.
Seats: upholstery, bolsters, seams. Does the wear match the stated mileage? Dashboard: cracks (sun damage), and whether every instrument works Lift the carpets: damp or rust on the floorpan? A musty smell as you get in is a clear sign of water getting in. Headlining and, on a convertible, the hood: condition, mechanism, waterproofing Originality: wheel, radio, gear lever, pedal rubbers. Are changes documented and reversible? No purchase without a drive, even if the seller hesitates. Drive it yourself, at least 20 to 30 minutes, with a cold start.
7. Fiat 500 Nuova 500 Model-specific 0/13
The critical points of the Nuova 500, in addition to the shared inspection catalogue. A lift or a pit is essential – the unitary body rusts at load-bearing points, and cheap metal restorations are the norm on this series, not the exception.
Check the floor panels from both sides underneath and lift the carpets: repair panels are common, and the quality of the welding is what counts. Fresh, thick underseal is a warning sign Botched work on the floor panels, painted over, is the most common fault on Nuova 500s offered for sale. Tap the sills inside and out: they are structural, they rot from the inside, and under trim strips and rubber seals they are often only disguised Check the door bottoms and the lower door edges. Water stands in the doors when the drains are blocked. On early N/D cars the doors open against the direction of travel (check the rear hinges) Check the battery tray and the front panel under the front lid: leaking battery acid and spray eat through the metal around the mounting Look for rust and filler in the front and rear wheel arches, at the base of the A-pillar and on the wing edges. Take a magnet or a paint-thickness gauge Check the folding-roof frame and the roof-frame edges: rust on the front bow and on the side runners is common. Open and close the folding roof fully, and check the cloth for tears A new folding roof is cheap; a rotten roof frame, by contrast, is metalwork with paint. Check the two-cylinder for oil leaks: crankshaft oil seals, the rocker cover and the sump gasket are the usual suspects. Light weeping is normal, drips are not The engine is simple and cheap to rebuild. An oil leak is a bargaining point, not a reason to walk away. Ask about the valve-clearance history: the pushrod engine needs regular adjustment. Clattering valves and blue exhaust smoke point to servicing that was put off Test the gearbox: the four-speed gearbox is unsynchronised. The seller must demonstrate changes with a throttle blip. Crunching despite a clean blip means worn dogs If you have never changed gear with a throttle blip, let the seller drive the test and listen closely. Check the brakes: drums all round. Pulling to one side and a long pedal travel point to seized wheel cylinders, almost always due after a long lay-up Compare the type plate, the chassis number and the engine number: does the engine match the series (479, 499.5 or 594 cm³)? 126 engine swaps are common and drag down the value of original cars Question Abarth add-ons critically: 595/695 badges, flares and open engine lids do not yet make an Abarth. Genuine cars need a documented history and the right numbers The market is full of replicas; for a genuine Abarth, always bring in a marque specialist. Clarify the import history: many Nuova 500s arrived in Switzerland freshly «restored» from Italy. Look at the records of the metalwork, otherwise treat the car as suspect of not having been restored The most important step comes after the visit: judge it soberly instead of deciding in love.