ClassicGuide classicguide.ch
Buying checklist MG MGB Roadster & GT
53 checkpoints for the viewing
1. Preparation and papers 0/6
Much becomes clear before you travel. If papers are missing without a good reason, that is already a price argument, or a reason to cancel.
Sheet metal is the dearest item on a classic. Take your time, bring a torch and a magnet, and be twice as wary of fresh underseal.
Rust in the usual places: wheel arches, sills, jacking points, window frames Inspect the underside. Fresh, thick underseal can hide rust Are the panel gaps even all round? Uneven gaps point to an accident or a poor repair Paint: colour differences, runs, masking edges, signs of a respray A paint-thickness gauge costs little and shows filler at once. Doors, bonnets and lids close cleanly, and the doors do not sag Chrome, trim and rubber seals: condition and completeness A replacement looks trivial, but on a rare model it is often expensive or unavailable. Are the drains clear? (scuttle, sunroof, boot, fuel filler) See the engine cold. A warmed engine hides starting trouble, rattles and smoke, so arrange the visit with the car cold.
4. Chassis, brakes and electrics 0/6
Unspectacular, but it matters for safety, and the MFK is unforgiving. Electrics are the most often underestimated cost on a classic.
Dampers, bushes and steering: play, knocks, worn joints Brake pipes and hoses: rust, porosity, age Tyres: check the DOT age (older than 8–10 years: replace), is the wear even? Wear on one side gives away geometry or accident damage. Tyres on a classic Try every electrical consumer: lights, indicators, wipers, instruments, heater and fan Look at the loom: bodges, flying fuses, added equipment Are the battery tray and earth points free of corrosion? The interior often gives away the true mileage better than the odometer, and damp in the footwell is a warning of hidden rust.
Seats: upholstery, bolsters, seams. Does the wear match the stated mileage? Dashboard: cracks (sun damage), and whether every instrument works Lift the carpets: damp or rust on the floorpan? A musty smell as you get in is a clear sign of water getting in. Headlining and, on a convertible, the hood: condition, mechanism, waterproofing Originality: wheel, radio, gear lever, pedal rubbers. Are changes documented and reversible? No purchase without a drive, even if the seller hesitates. Drive it yourself, at least 20 to 30 minutes, with a cold start.
7. MG MGB Roadster & GT Model-specific 0/12
The critical points of the MGB, in addition to the common inspection catalogue. The MGB has a unitary body: the sills are load-bearing structure, not cosmetics. A lift or a pit is essential, because the most expensive damage sits in the three-layer sill, where nothing shows from outside.
Check the sills along their full length: outer sill, membrane panel and inner sill (castle sections) are built in three layers and carry the body. Tap them, and watch for fresh underseal and repairs buried in filler A cheap outer sill welded on without repairing the castle sections is the most common hidden job. A proper sill repair costs several thousand francs a side. Check the floor pans and longitudinal rails from underneath: lift the carpets, look for damp, weld seams and fresh sealant. Jacking test: if the open body twists, the structure is not sound Check the front wings around the headlamp bowls and along the A-pillar. Check the door bottoms and rear wheel arches for bubbles and edge rust Check the rear spring hangers and the battery boxes behind the seats. Both rust out of sight and both are load-bearing Rusted-through spring mounts mean structural welding, not a bargain argument. On the GT: check the tailgate frame, the rain gutters and the rear-window frame. Water marks on the boot floor point to a leaking tailgate or glass seal B-series engine (1798 cm³): oil pressure warm, at speed, at least about 50 psi, at idle above 10–15 psi. Blue smoke when you lift off points to valve-stem seals or wear The engine is robust and cheap to rebuild. A tired unit is negotiating room, not a reason to walk away. Check the cooling: watch the temperature at idle and after a motorway run. A scaled radiator and a tired water pump show up in a summer queue. On the rubber-bumper car the engine is also hidden behind the front valance Overdrive (if fitted): on the test drive, engage it in third and fourth. It must come in and drop out noticeably, without delay. Often only a cable or the oil level is at fault. Otherwise an expensive overhaul is due Overdrive is the most important piece of MGB equipment and brings a clear premium at resale. Check the kingpins of the front axle: with the wheel raised, hold the top and the bottom and rock it. Play means replacement. The pins need greasing every few thousand kilometres On rubber-bumper cars (from autumn 1974): check the ride height. As built, the car sits about 2.5 cm higher. Check whether a lowering or a conversion to chrome bumpers was done properly and is documented Conversions to a chrome look are common, but they have to be done cleanly and entered in Switzerland. Hood (Roadster): look for cracks, cloudy windows and a poor fit. Test the frame and the tensioning. A new hood, fitted, costs 1'500–3'000 francs Cross-check identity and history: chassis number, engine number and, on British cars, the Heritage Certificate. On right-hand-drive to left-hand-drive conversions and on Heritage shells, read the paperwork The most important step comes after the visit: judge it soberly instead of deciding in love.