Buying checklist Porsche 911 G-Modell

Much becomes clear before you travel. If papers are missing without a good reason, that is already a price argument, or a reason to cancel.

• Registration document present, the Stammnummer matches the vehicle
• Latest MFK (periodic vehicle inspection): date, any conditions, and veteran entryVeteran status is tied to conditions (condition, mileage). Gaining it later can be expensive.Veteran status explained
• Look at the service book, invoices and restoration recordsPhotographs of a restoration are worth more than the words "just done".History and papers
• Matching Numbers: check engine and chassis numbers against the papersHistory and papers
• Are the number of previous owners and the location history plausible? (import, periods standing)Importing into Switzerland
• Read the value estimate and the weak points of the series beforehandBoth are in the buying guide for that series.

Sheet metal is the dearest item on a classic. Take your time, bring a torch and a magnet, and be twice as wary of fresh underseal.

• Rust in the usual places: wheel arches, sills, jacking points, window frames
• Inspect the underside. Fresh, thick underseal can hide rust
• Are the panel gaps even all round? Uneven gaps point to an accident or a poor repair
• Paint: colour differences, runs, masking edges, signs of a resprayA paint-thickness gauge costs little and shows filler at once.
• Doors, bonnets and lids close cleanly, and the doors do not sag
• Chrome, trim and rubber seals: condition and completenessA replacement looks trivial, but on a rare model it is often expensive or unavailable.
• Are the drains clear? (scuttle, sunroof, boot, fuel filler)

See the engine cold. A warmed engine hides starting trouble, rattles and smoke, so arrange the visit with the car cold.

• Cold start: does the engine fire willingly, and how is the idle in the first minutes?
• Check the oil level and colour, and look at the coolantStreaks in the coolant or pale foam on the oil cap point to the head gasket.
• Leaks at the engine, gearbox and differential (look from below)A light sweat is normal on an old engine. Drips are not.
• Exhaust smoke: blue = oil, white (persistent) = head gasket, black = mixture
• Clutch: bite point, judder, slip under load
• All gears including reverse; synchromesh on the downchange
• Ask about the service state of the expensive items: timing belt or chain, valve clearances, carburettor overhaul

Unspectacular, but it matters for safety, and the MFK is unforgiving. Electrics are the most often underestimated cost on a classic.

• Dampers, bushes and steering: play, knocks, worn joints
• Brake pipes and hoses: rust, porosity, age
• Tyres: check the DOT age (older than 8–10 years: replace), is the wear even?Wear on one side gives away geometry or accident damage.Tyres on a classic
• Try every electrical consumer: lights, indicators, wipers, instruments, heater and fan
• Look at the loom: bodges, flying fuses, added equipment
• Are the battery tray and earth points free of corrosion?

The interior often gives away the true mileage better than the odometer, and damp in the footwell is a warning of hidden rust.

• Seats: upholstery, bolsters, seams. Does the wear match the stated mileage?
• Dashboard: cracks (sun damage), and whether every instrument works
• Lift the carpets: damp or rust on the floorpan?A musty smell as you get in is a clear sign of water getting in.
• Headlining and, on a convertible, the hood: condition, mechanism, waterproofing
• Originality: wheel, radio, gear lever, pedal rubbers. Are changes documented and reversible?

No purchase without a drive, even if the seller hesitates. Drive it yourself, at least 20 to 30 minutes, with a cold start.

• Experience the cold start and the first minutes yourself (do not let it be warmed up)
• Tracking: on a straight, safe road, does the car pull to one side?
• Brakes: pedal feel, pulling to one side, judder under harder braking
• Listen on purpose: suspension knocks, gearbox whine, wheel-bearing drone in corners
• Watch temperature and oil pressure for the whole drive
• After the drive, look underneath again: fresh drips at the engine, gearbox or differential?

The critical points of the G-model, in addition to the common inspection catalogue. Take a torch and a mirror: the B-pillar and the vertical panel cannot be judged without tools.

• Vertical panel in the engine bay around the oil filler neck: rust bubbles? If the paint is intact, a cautious push testThe most often missed rust spot on the G-model.
• Check the B-pillar from inside with a torch (fold back the trim in the rear wheel housing)It rusts unseen from the inner side of the wheel housing.
• Rear wheel arches and sills: bubbles, a musty smell, fresh underseal as a warning sign
• Aluminium bumpers where they meet the bellows: corrosion pimples under the paint, white powder
• Window frames front and rear: rust points to leaking seals or a poor screen replacement
• 911 2.7: documented engine rebuild (studs / thread inserts) among the invoices? Without proof, walk away or price in a rebuild
• 911 SC: chain tensioner converted to the Carrera type? Ask about the airbox history
• Carrera 3.2: engine bay largely dry? Check valve-cover gaskets, the oil-pressure switch, the intake manifolds and the Motronic peripheralsA heavily oiled 3.2 is deferred maintenance, not a normal condition.
• 915 gearbox (up to 1986): notchiness is normal; gears jumping out and crunching on engagement are not
• 930 Turbo: rule out an accident history (panel gaps, paint thickness, chassis areas), and clarify power increases and registration entries
• Speedster: verify body numbers, the equipment code and the papers. Converted cabriolets are in circulation
• US reimports: import and customs history complete? Mile odometer and US specification reflected in the price?

The most important step comes after the visit: judge it soberly instead of deciding in love.

• Judge the condition grade honestly (1–5). If in doubt, half a grade worseThe grades are explained in the knowledge article on condition grades.Condition grades explained
• Compare the price with the series estimate, and note the faults as a negotiating list
• If you are serious: arrange a short independent appraisal, or a second visit with a specialistAn appraisal costs a few hundred francs. Missed sheet-metal damage costs several times that.Appraisal before buying
• Do not rush: a serious seller allows time to think